Tai O, Tai... O, Daylight come and we arrive in Hong Kong..

Sydney, Venice, Lisbon…. Just when you think a sail in couldn’t get any better you arrive in Hong Kong Harbour.

As dawn broke, we were surrounded by groups of mountainous islands jutting out of the ocean, similar to many other Asian ports we have visited. As we sailed closer, like a mirage, the city skyline appeared in the distance. Closer still and you start to realise the magnitude of the construction filling every piece of vacant land on the Island.  Now it was starting to look like the Hong Kong we all know and love. Layer upon layer upon layer of apartment blocks scaling the mountain sides. Still the old is not lost, as you see a traditional small fishing village of stilted shanties against a back drop of a thoroughly modern city.

As the Star Ferry raced across our path, Captain Rikard spun us around and slowly brought us up alongside Hong Kong’s Ocean Terminal. 

Conveniently placed at Kowloon right next door to the Ferry Terminal.  We had been warned to be very careful when exiting the terminal and entering the attached shopping centre.  A centre so large that it has been designed to get you lost and get you so stressed you would to spend more money to make you feel better.  Ships have known to be stranded waiting for passengers who couldn’t find their way back.  Like breadcrumbs, we did notice strategically placed plaques on the floor pointing out the direction back to the ship.

Either because of miscommunication, or our Tour Guide not having a sign with our name on it, our tour organiser lead the charge off the ship, out of the terminal only stopping once we hit the Ferry Terminal... Hmm no Guide…  After inspecting the confirmation email a couple of us decided we better head back into the terminal to see if we had left him behind.  As we stared blankly at our phone trying to work out how to make a call, a gentleman walked up and asked “are you looking for me?” … we just looked up at him (yes he was tall ) and said “where is your sign?”

Luckily this early hiccup did not impact on the enjoyment of our day. Wouter, our guide, originates from The Netherlands, and love brought him to Hong Kong 14 years ago.  He currently has his guiding business, but is also trying to introduce a system of high rise gardening more commonly known as Hydroponics.

Today we were heading out to Lantau Island to visit its famous monastery and fishing villages.  Wouter handed us all a loaded Octopus card mirroring our Opal transport card… Mine was made up of all pretty colours where everyone else’s were plain green…. But then I had to pay $20 HK for each trip and those with the over 65 card cost only $2 HK per trip.

We walked for ages underground until we finally found the railway station

We caught the MTR from East Tsim Sha Tsui, after changing once we arrived at Tung Chung Station.  With perfect timing, we have arrived in Hong Kong the week that Ngong Ping 360 Cable Car was down due to maintenance.   Instead extra local buses were running to ferry people up to the top of the mountain where we would visit the Po Lin Monastery and the Big Buddha.

Assuming that our bus drivers knew the roads like the back of their hands, they drove the 45 min winding road to the top of the mountain at break neck speed.

Reminiscent of the Batu Caves in KL, to reach the base of the Buddha you are faced with what you imagine to be a “stairway to Heaven”, an endless set of stairs that would reward you with panoramic views if you made it to the top.

Then there are the temples themselves, beautifully ornate predominately in red and gold with the sweet smells of incense burning in prays and offerings to the gods.

We stayed for lunch, $138 HK per person for the Deluxe menu, purely vegetarian, very tasty and to quote a fellow passenger “this would be nice with chicken “.

Built in a fashion to represent the villages of old, a street sits adjacent to the monastery with souvenirs ready to trap visitors on their way back to the cable car or buses.

Retracing our steps at a faster speed the bus headed down to the small fishing village of Tai O, a village famous for its dried fish and stilt houses built over the water.  Many of the houses have been rebuilt, but many still look original and even more in disrepair.  Apparently there was an issue when people sought approvals for renovations, mainly because the originals were built by what we would call squatters and there was no ownership of land. But common sense prevailed and the heritage has been preserved.

Dried fish is Tai O’s industry. No commercial ovens, no health and safety regulations here.  Fish hang on roof tops or lay drying in baskets out the front of people’s houses.  A market of dried seafood lines the main streets, and the stench, I mean the smell of fish is pungent enough to make your eyes water. 

Also cashing in on the tourist industry for $20 Hong Kong Dollars you can board a small boat that would take up and down the waterway so that you can see the houses from the water.  They then take you out past the breakwater into the sea where if you look hard enough you can see the amazing Chinese Pink Dolphins.  And they are … a lovely pale pink colour, just like a My Little Pony, any little girl would love to own one.

We also visited a very ancient tiny temple, and I say that because I forgot to write down when it dates back to.  An interesting fact is when they built these temples they always have a bell.  On the bell is a date.  So if the temple is destroyed, the large iron bells usually survive and hence record of the date of construction…  I think that is how the story went …. Well is sounds good!!

By now we were absolutely melting… the heat and humidity was draining.  We were off again back on to the local bus heading to the town of Mui Wo where the ferries leave back to Hong Kong Island.

Being early and tired we decided to catch the fast ferry back instead of the slower scenic ferry that left in an hours time… A decision well-made cause as we neared Hong Kong the heavens opened.  But being monsoonal the rains stopped just as we walked off onto the pier.  No one can visit Hong Kong without taking a ride on the famous Star Ferry and having to get back to Kowloon where our ship was docked - we literally caught the slow boat to China!!

Having a couple of hours before our all on-board at 7.30pm we decided to walk along the Iconic Nathan Rd.  It is lights, camera, action, but no shopping action for us as the prices in Hong Kong are astronomical. I saw my Haviannas which I had bought for around $20 ticketed at over $60…. Eek!

Our sail away coincided with the Symphony of Lights show on Hong Kong Island.  I guess after experiencing the fabulous displays of Vivid in Sydney, this light show fell a little flat.  Maybe if we were on shore where you could hear the synchronised music the impact may have been better.

Surrounded by the bright and flashing lights of Hong Kong made sailing out just as beautiful as the sail in.

And so it is “Sea La Vie” from the beautiful Sun Princess.

Tour – Lantau Island

Tour Guide – Wouter Van Marle  (found on Tours by Locals)

Email -  info@cityhydroponics.hk