The longest Cemetery in the World - Beijing China

After the success of yesterday’s tour, we all poured off the ship at 6.30 am for our 7 am sharp meeting time with our guide.  No immigration today; once gathered we all headed for the Gangway. Now as you may remember, I mentioned the curfew last night was 9 pm. We giggled as we spotted one crew member doing the walk of shame pass us back on to the ship.

This was the original scheduled day to be in Beijing, and our tour company had several tours leaving at the same time.  We walked out of the terminal, but no-one was there… we waited and waited… Each tour group looking at each other for some sort of reassurance.  Herbie did tell us that they were staying in Tianjin for the night, so we were a little confused as to why they had not arrived… Waving goodbye to all the Princess tours the worry was starting to show.

Like a cavalry arriving to save the day, our buses burst onto the scene one after another in a blaze of glory, led by none other than Mr Wai.  That explains it.

So we leave the terminal in a convoy, Mr Wai out in front, Mr Wong (our driver) at the back and I don’t know in the Middle.  Mr Wai goes straight ahead followed by I don’t I know in the middle, but we make a right-hand turn. Quick phone call, we make a U-turn and catch up to the other two.  

Confusion can be heard as drivers exchange phone calls.  We all make a right-hand turn. We all pull over, Mr Wong races up to Mr Wai to find out which wai he is going. Mr Wong thinks it is the wong wai, and the driver in the middle doesn’t know. Once Mr Wong and Mr Wai have it sorted, we all follow the right wai.

As none of us can understand Chinese we can only guess that this is what had happened. Gerry our guide told us basically one driver was driving by Navman while another was driving by memory.

Our trip to the Mutianyu Section of the Great Wall took us about three and half hours.  Most of it was along their fabulous four-lane motorways. I won’t say freeways, as we did pass through several toll gates.  In the mornings, pollution is quite heavy, reminiscent of a thick morning fog in Sydney.

Gerry’s information was more about Beijing and the wall itself. Out of the blue Gerry asks “does anyone know the national bird of China?”. We all must have looked dumb because he then pointed to a very large construction site we were passing and said: “The Crane”.  On this site, there must have been at least six cranes standing tall.  We think Sydney has a lot of building. Beijing not only has a lot, but each construction takes up such a large area.

Mutianyu is one of the most spectacular sections of the Great Wall and less crowded.  The town is lush and green, a perfect spot where farms have been converted into simple resorts.  People from Beijing come to stay overnight, have a BBQ while the children play on the grass and enjoy the pleasures we take for granted back home, with our cleaner air and backyards.  Mutianyu is also known for its fruit orchards, so their roadside stalls are full of fresh produce.

In keeping with the holiday theme, once you arrive at the Wall entrance, you catch a chairlift up to the top.  In the distance, we noticed that there was another section that you can go higher in a gondola.  Once at the top you have the option of coming down the same way or a faster more thrilling way by toboggan.

Climbing the wall is one of those bucket list moments.  Our section was in a very pristine condition, being restored several times over the years.  As the wall follows the ridge of the mountains, there are sections that are quite flat and others that are steep and a challenge to walk. These steps have a rise that certainly would not pass regulations back in Sydney.  The crowds were at a minimum, and it was a wonderful feeling to be able to absorb the enormity of it all without all the hustling and bustling so commonly experienced at so many other landmarks.

Now you might be wondering where the heading for my blog fits in,  we did see a documentary on the Great Wall that said that over the years it took to build, many lives were lost and were buried within the wall itself – this makes the Wall the world’s longest Cemetery!!

It had been drizzling on and off with rain which meant the toboggans were out of action, so we headed back down the mountain on the chairlifts.  At the bottom we were accosted by two elderly gentlemen dressed as soldiers to take photos, earning themselves enough to supplement their pensions if they received one.

 We drove further down the mountain and stopped for lunch.  The restaurant was like eating in a greenhouse with its netted ceilings and beautifully landscaped garden that seemed to create separate areas where groups can sit eat and relax.

 Now it was time to hit the big smoke. Our one-and-a-half-hour drive into Beijing took the better part of two.  This huge city is made up of six ring roads, all radiating out of the centre where you will find Tiananmen Square and the Forbidden City.  We were literally driving around in circles which constantly felt like we were backtracking, but really just weaving our way towards the centre.  U turns are just ways to make left-hand turns when it was illegal to make left hand turns at major intersections.  U turns must give you right of way, as no matter if you were in a small street or a major highway, you just turn in front of oncoming traffic which is forced to stop and let you in…. your left hand turn has now become an easy legal right hand turn (for those confused, remember in China they drive on the opposite side of the road to us).

Time was of the essence now as the Forbidden city stops allowing visitors from entering from 4 pm.  Traffic was not on our side, and even with Mr Wong’s clever way of dodging bank ups by scooting down service roads, we only made it into the Forbidden City with ten minutes to spare.  Luckier than Mr Wai’s group as they arrived at 4.10pm and were denied entry.

Because of the curfew to get into the Forbidden City , we did the “Tiananmen Square Highlights tour”.  At a fast walking pace we first had to pass through security scanners  as we entered the square.  Unfortunately for all its beauty the Square is mostly remembered for the massacre that occurred in 1986.  A massacre that never occurred according to Chinese search engines, and a massacre that Gerry has been told of three different scenarios to what really happened.

1^st What was reported by the government.

Students attacked and killed several soldiers and burnt out tanks…. Bad Students!!

2^nd Western Propaganda

Basically what was reported to us by journalists including the very famous standoff between tank and man!

3^rd Witnessed By truck drivers who blocked the surrounding streets to protect the students by stopping the army from entering.

Government officials warned the students that they should disperse or there would be consequences. When they didn’t, they witnessed soldiers marching, under the cover of darkness, into Tiananmen from trap doors under the square and the massacred the students.  As dawn broke over the city, the students were gone and the street cleaners with large hoses washing down the square presumingly ridding all evidence of split blood.

Gerry said he didn’t know which scenario is true and probably never will. Maybe it is a case of a little bit of everything makes up the real story.

Back to racing towards the Forbidden City.  Once through the second security screening and the entrance gates, we were able to enjoy the city at a more enjoyable pace.  Working our way from front to back we walked through gates that brought us out into squares housing different parts of the palace. Grand halls are where the official ceremonies were held. Sections that housed the emperor’s empress and concubines. Ending with beautifully landscaped gardens and pagodas. And just as you feel the serenity of it all, you exit the back gates into the hustling and bustling sounds of the traffic and the city.

Yes, I bought something!

The next feat was finding the bus…. What did they do before mobile phones? With Gerry on the phone, we walked in a direction that we could meet back up with Mr Wong who was still dealing with the Beijing traffic.  Now we shouldn’t have worried that we never got the opportunity souvenir shop.  We were a captive audience as they walked up and down trying to tempt us with the wares they had for sale.  The longer we were there, and the longer they waved the goods under our noses, the more inclined we became to buy.  After what seemed like an eternity we finally spotted our little cream bus stopping and starting its way towards us. After what was definitely an illegal U-turn, Mr Wong was on our side of the road and with relief, we all poured in.

It was here that Gerry left us, as he really didn’t need to make the trip back into Tianjin, but he did give instructions to Mr Wong to get us back to the ship on time, calling into a roadside convenience/petrol station midway home.

Tonight’s curfew was 9.30 and we had four hours to complete our two and a half-hour plus traffic trip back to the ship. Getting out of Beijing was just as challenging, and we swear backed tracked several times, but with great efficiency, Mr Wong got us back the right Wai.

Now speaking of curfews, there is a funny story which we only learnt about the next morning as we decided to retire due to a delay in sailing away.

Apparently the Chinese are so efficient in locking up before they went home, they locked all doors leading out to the pier from the terminal.  This was fine except that no one could get out there to let go of the lines. Apparently, they had to wait for someone to come from one of the adjoining container terminals with the keys. After all the Chinese red tape I think the crew were happy to see the end of our China portion of our trip.

And so it is “Sea La Vie” from the beautiful Sun Princess.

Tour:  1 Day Mutianyu Great Wall and Forbidden City Private Tour from Tianjin Port

Company: Beijing Tours Guide

Website: www.BeijingToursGuide.com

Tianjin - The right Wai.

No sail in for these Peking ducks!  Schedule was for us to be docked at 4am.  Instead we woke up bright and a little later ready to face the infamous Chinese immigration.  Having immigration shore side makes things run a lot smoother for Princess. Once ready to head ashore we were instructed to gather in the Vista lounge.  We were given a number and when called we debarked into the terminal. 

WOW what a terminal…. Sydney we really need to knock down the OPT and rebuild.  China is getting ready for the Ovation of the Seas to arrive. A large replica of the ship sits under glass and there are banners throughout the terminal announcing its arrival…

You always feel a sense of relief when you walk out of the terminal, and with a smiling face your guide is there to meet you.  Herbie welcomed us all and then whisked us off to our waiting bus under the command of Mr Wai.

This tour was organised last minute after we found out about our itinerary change. We affectionately named this our Tianjin Magical Mystery Tour, and although we had an outline, Herbie was also making it up as we went along.  

Our only other obstacle was Mr Wai, as this was a new Wai for him too. Lucky he had his Maps app to find his Wai around. Sometimes it was the right Wai, and sometimes it was the Wong Wai but in the end we always found our Wai.

After the formal introductions, Herbie declared that today we would all be known as Herbies and when called, we followed.  China is facebookless and googleless.  China has its own search engine managed by the government and you can only search what they want you to know.

The Tianjin Port area has been built on reclaimed land.  Consisting of large container terminals, and on the outskirts, and as you drive through you can see apartments of mass construction. Government incentives are in place in the hope of encouraging families to move out of the already congested areas of Beijing. 

Chinese are not big on change, so the government has to find more ways to get them out there. So now these apartments stand empty.

From the port to the main financial centre of Tianjin, driving along the four lane motorway took approximately one hour.  On entering the city. it was nothing like we had expected.  If it was not for the Chinese writing, you would have never thought you were in China.  The river running through the centre with its ornate bridges made you think of the Seine.  The parks with their gazebos and statues of musicians made you think of Vienna.  The architecture made you think of the classic buildings of Europe.

 We drove around an area known as the Wudadao Area (Five-Avenue Area). The five main avenues are Machangdao, Munandao, Dalidao, Chongqingdao and Chengdudao. There are 22 roads, with a total length of 17 kilometres. There are over 2,000 garden-style villas built in 1920s and 30s by different countries. But very much influenced by Europe.

We stopped to stroll up and down Italian Style Town, well for all the Italian influence there were a lot of German beer halls, and I am not sure just how traditional Pizza Hut actually is. Obviously a very popular spot during the current European Cup.

Our next stop was Qianyuan Manor. Puyi, the last emperor of Qing Dynasty, moved here with Wan Rong, his empress, and Wen Xiu, his concubine. He later renamed it Garden of Serenity (Jing Garden). The main building is a Spanish-style brick structure and the first 2 floors have been restored and on display. Other parts of the manor had been converted into museums that told his story in both words and pictures.

Walking up the back streets to find our bus, we went into an older part of Tianjin where people lived down alleys with crazy power lines and large orange pipes which provided heating to each of the homes. Small store fronts selling vegetables, fruits and other Chinese delicacies.  An excellent find considering our only mission was to find the bus.

 Another delicious lunch in the Vienna International Hotel with varying meals of vegetables, beef and chicken.

Munan was a beautiful park we came across, with lovely roses, water features and European feel. Despite the heat several elderly Chinese took refuge under a tree enjoying a social game of cards, we are sure there was money at stake although well hidden. In the streets surrounding the park are the Garden Style Villa’s of the well-to-do, and if this was where they lived, our next visit was where they worked.

North Jiefang Road, was once known as the Wall St of the East. Lined with massive buildings which just scream Banks or financial institutions.  Each of these buildings display a plaque marking the site as part of the Historical and Stylistic Architecture of Tianjin and under “Very Important Protection.”

It was now getting late and we had to head back to the ship.  Although we were staying overnight, the Chinese Officials gave us a curfew of 9pm as they were packing up their bat and balls and going home for the night... Doors will be locked and entry will not recommence until 6 am the next morning.

Heading back to the terminal seemed to take a little longer (two hours), maybe because of the traffic or maybe Mr Wai was having trouble finding his Wai again, and we have a feeling we may have gone the long Wai.